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LED lighting for shopping malls

LED lighting for shopping malls

LED lighting for shopping malls

LED lighting for shopping malls:

You may not think about it, but the lighting in a shopping centre has a great influence on the general impression. Most of us have tried to visit a shop, where the lighting was either too dimmed or too intense, and in most cases this affect what you buy. In this week’s blog post, we take a closer look at how to create the perfect ambience in a shopping mall by means of LED lighting.

Upgrading from traditional lighting to LED lighting can seem like an immense and costly affair. For this reason, many malls utilize traditional fluorescent tubes, who raise the price of the utility bill. But does it have to be expensive and difficult at all, and which advantages are associated with using LED in a mall?

Reduced expenses

First, you should perceive LED lighting as an investment. And it does not necessarily need to be a long-term investment. Most luminaires are retrofit, which means that the fluorescent tube can be replaced directly with an LED tube. This makes the replacement both simple and cheap. Furthermore, it means that the return on investment in most cases is around 1-2 years, wherefore the investment is rapidly recouped. In fact, you save up to 70% on electricity when you compare LEDs to conventional lighting, seeing that light-emitting diodes are far more energy efficient than fluorescent tubes.

Create a cosy atmosphere

Besides reducing costs, LED lighting can contribute to creating a cosy environment in the shopping mall. The LED light can be adjusted with regard to luminosity and colour temperature, and the light can even follow the circadian rhythm. This means that the light is warm in the morning and evening hours, whereas it is cooler during the day. Apart from this, smart LED lighting can contribute to guiding the customers to all corners of the centre. Altogether, the customers can be encouraged to stay longer and to buy more, in particular.

Attract customers

A cosy ambience inside is crucial to the mall, but what about the outside? An increasing amount of shopping centres choose to incorporate LED lighting as a part of their façade. For example, the light-emitting diodes can be used as a billboard for special shops or as a play of colours making the centre beautiful and attractive to the sight. There are endless opportunities and the only limitation is your imagination.

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Why choose DALI dimming? And what does Type 8 mean?

Why choose DALI dimming? And what does Type 8 mean?

Why choose DALI dimming? And what does Type 8 mean?

Why choose DALI dimming?

DALI (Digital Addressable Lighting Interface) is probably one of the most popular systems for dimming and lighting control. Today DALI Type 8 is available for purchase, and that is an addition to the regular and widely used DALI standard. In this blog post we elaborate on DALI in general as well as on the latest Type 8 addition, while also explaining why it is worth looking out for when buying lighting solutions.

DALI is a stable, flexible and indeed future-proofed system because of its innovative construction. The system only requires one single cable wherein a two-way signal runs trough the control panels, sensors and luminaires. The system therefore communicates mutually, which is essentially eliminating the need of one central controlling device. The controlling lies within the several components on the system, not a single unit, which makes DALI a safe and reliable system.

The aforementioned future-proofing in DALI is simply due to the fact that you do not have to switch or replace cables when you want to change or alter the lighting in a given room. If you want to convert a conference room into an open space office with fixed working stations requiring a higher lux level, all you need to do is reprogram the DALI system settings.

DALI is founded and developed by DiiA (Digital Illumination Interface Alliance), which is an alliance of large international lighting companies working towards their mutual goal of increasing the market for lighting control based on DALI technology.

DALI Type 8
DALI Type 8 is an addition to the original DALI standard, which does not only control luminosity but also gives you the opportunity to control the colour in your LED luminaires, like the RGB and colour temperature (also known under the name ‘Tunable white’).

On former DALI versions the system had two drivers and two addresses, one to the cold colour temperature and one to the warm colour temperature. The relationship between these two drivers controlled the colour temperature, meaning that you needed e.g. 40% from one driver with cold light and 60% from the other driver with warm light, to obtain a desired kelvin.

It was incredibly difficult to daylight regulate the lighting with an older DALI system because a simple alteration would distort the relationship between the drivers and change the colour temperature completely. It was a challenging process just to find the right colour temperature. On DALI Type 8 you have two channels on one address, which enables the drivers to alter the colour relationship automatically and hereby daylight regulate the lighting.

After such a technical explanation you might think what the benefits of DALI Type 8 really are. Apart from giving you the opportunity to ‘play’ with the lighting and illuminate your bedroom with a naughty ‘candy red’ colour, DALI Type 8 actually offer a range of more serious benefits.

Colour control through DALI Type 8 can give you a realistic daylight rhythm in your artificial indoor lighting. With DALI Type 8 you can make the lighting change in both colour and intensity, imitating the shifts occurring in the natural lighting outside. Systems like DALI Type 8 are highly sought after in the hospital sector, as bed ridden patients can get the feeling of natural lighting without having to get up and out.

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IK Ratings

IK Ratings

IK Ratings

IK Ratings

IK00 – No Protection

IK01 – Protected against 0.14 joules of impact (the equivalent to the impact of a 0.25kg mass dropped from 56mm above the impacted surface)

IK02 – Protected against 0.2 joules of impact (the equivalent to the impact of a 0.25kg mass dropped from 80mm above the impacted surface)

IK03 – Protected against 0.35 joules of impact (the equivalent to the impact of a 0.2kg mass dropped from 140mm above the impacted surface)

IK04 – Protected against 0.5 joules of impact (the equivalent to the impact of a 0.25kg mass dropped from 200mm above the impacted surface)

IK05 – Protected against 0.7 joules of impact (the equivalent to the impact of a 0.25kg mass dropped from 280mm above the impacted surface)

IK06 – Protected against 1 joules of impact (the equivalent to the impact of a 0.25kg mass dropped from 400mm above the impacted surface)

IK07 – Protected against 2 joules of impact (the equivalent to the impact of a 0.5kg mass dropped from 400mm above the impacted surface)

IK08 – Protected against 5 joules of impact (the equivalent to the impact of a 1.7kg mass dropped from 300mm above the impacted surface)

IK09 – Protected against 10 joules of impact (the equivalent to the impact of a 5kg mass dropped from 200mm above the impacted surface)

IK10 – Protected against 20 joules of impact (the equivalent to the impact of a 5kg mass dropped from 400mm above the impacted surface)

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EXPLORE COLOR TEMPERATURE

EXPLORE COLOR TEMPERATURE

WHAT IS COLOR TEMPERATURE?

Lighting Color Temperature:

Color temperature is measured in degrees Kelvin (K). The color temperature of a lamp (bulb) describes how the light appears when the human eye looks directly at the illuminated bulb.

HOW IS COLOR TEMPERATURE MEASURED?

Lighting Color temperature is measured by a unit called the Kelvin (K). The Kelvin thermodynamic temperature scale is defined so that absolute zero is 0 kelvins (K). (Note: The Celsius and Fahrenheit scales are defined so that absolute zero is −273.15 °C or −459.67 °F). Imagine heating a bar of steel and observing the color of the bar at increasing temperatures. At some point the bar will appear to glow a dull red. As heat is added, the dull red turns to yellow, then to white, then to bluish white, finally to blue.

HOW COLOR TEMPERATURE WORKS

A light bulb that produces light perceived as yellowish white will have a color temperature of around 2700K. As the color temperature increases to 3000K – 3500K, the color of the light appears less yellow and more white. When the color temperature is 5000K or higher the light produced appears bluish white. The color temperature of daylight varies, but is often in the 5000K to 7000K range.

2700-2800K — WARM LIGHT

When the desired lighting effect is “warm”, use light sources in the 2700K – 2800K range. Most common incandescent light bulbs will produce light in this color temperature range. An exception is the incandescent light bulb with a neodymium coating. The neodymium filters out the yellow and red wavelengths of the visible spectrum leaving predominately blue wavelengths. So even though neodymium light bulbs have a 2800K color temperature, the light they produce appears to be bluer – similar to daylight and to other light bulbs that product light with color temperatures in the 5000K or higher range.

3500-4000K — NEUTRAL BRIGHT LIGHT

When the desired effect is neutral or bright white, use light sources in the 3000K – 3500K range. For a slightly bluer, “cooler” effect use 4000K.

5000-6500K — SIMULATE DAYLIGHT

Daylight color temperature at noon is 5600K, but sunlight color temperature can vary widely based on time of day and weather conditions. To give the perception of daylight (bluish white light), use light sources with a color temperature of 5000K or higher.

KEY DESIGN ISSUE

When deciding on the best light bulb for a particular application, one consideration not to overlook is the appearance of the light as perceived by the people using the space. For example, many people will find a formal dining room more appealing with “warmer” appearing light, while for a large, open-plan office “neutral to cool white” appearing light is the better choice. Color temperature designations of light bulbs can be confusing. Sometimes you’ll see subjective terms such as “warm white” or “cool white.” Other times, the quantitative Kelvin temperature number will be used: 2700K (warm white), 4100K (cool white). Here are some approximate reference points: candle light is 1800K (warm yellow), a standard  is 2700K (warm white), lights in a portrait photo studio are 3200K (neutral white), fluorescent lights in a classroom or office are often 4100K (cool white), daylight with a thin overcast sky is 6500K (bluish, white light). Most incandescent and halogen bulbs are in the Kelvin range 2700K-3000K. Fluorescent, metal halide and LED bulbs can be purchased with color temperature options from 2700K to 6500K.

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What is a Lumen? What’s the Difference Between it and a Watt?

What is a Lumen? What’s the Difference Between it and a Watt?

Lighting—it’s all about lumens. But what are lumens, exactly? And how do you understand what are lumens in light bulbs and light fixtures? In addition to being the Internet’s premier modern lighting and design store, lumens is now THE way to find out how bright a lighted bulb or integrated LED lighting fixture is. And if you want a fixture with bright, luminous personality, it’s the key to choosing the perfect piece for your lighting scheme.

The lumens definition is: “a unit of luminous flux in the International System of Units, that is equal to the amount of light given out through a solid angle by a source of one candela intensity radiating equally in all directions.”

In short…

Lumens equals brightness!

And watts do not. Not that watts are bad, but they measure energy use, not light output. With new, energy-efficient LED technology, we can no longer rely upon wattage to indicate how bright a bulb is. See how to measure lumens below:

HOW MANY LUMENS DO YOU NEED?
MORE LUMENS = MORE LIGHT
If you used to buy this in incandescentLook for this much light in lumensLED
(most efficient)
CFL
(more efficient)
Halogen
(more efficient incandescent)
100 W1600up to 22 Wup to 26 Wup to 72 W
75 W1100up to 20 Wup to 23 Wup to 53 W
60 W800up to 12 Wup to 15 Wup to 43 W
40 W450up to 9 Wup to 11 Wup to 29 W
Lumens vs Watts: Output and wattages based on most common products available for each medium screw-based light bulb. Actual light output may vary by product.

Use the chart above to determine exactly how many lumens are in a watt and vice versa. This should provide you with a good understanding of how bright 120 lumens is vs. a fixture with 5000 lumens. Additionally, you can use the color temperature chart to help you in choosing the best lighting for your application.

How Do I Read the New Light Bulb Label?
Kelvin, lumens, watts, The changes in lighting regulations and technologies mean that there are new lighting terms to learn. For example, while we’ve previously looked to watts to learn a bulb’s brightness, that information is now presented in lumens.

How Do I Choose an Energy-Efficient Light Bulb?
If you love incandescents, look to halogen.It is not illegal to own and use the existing standard incandescent bulbs, but once retailers’ supplies are depleted, that’s it. But the incandescent bulb isn’t dead. Moving forward, the general service bulbs that will be available will include halogen light bulbs, which is actually a subcategory of incandescent bulbs. They are 25% more energy efficient than standard incandescents, and they can last up to three times longer. Also, like standard incandescents, they’re dimmable and come in a range of sizes, shapes and colors. Available halogen options and their discontinued standard incandescent equivalents are as follows:

  • 29 watts halogen = 40 watts incandescent
  • 43 watts halogen = 60 watts incandescent
  • 53 watts halogen = 75 watts incandescent
  • 72 watts halogen = 100 watts incandescent

 

Look for the ENERGY STAR label.Especially in LEDs, the manufacturing quality of the bulb varies, with lesser bulbs not lasting as long as their better-built counterparts. Lighting experts currently recommend only buying ENERGY STAR-qualified LED light bulbs, as they must pass numerous quality tests to earn that designation.

Look at the bulb’s Color Rendering Index (CRI).This will help with CFLs especially. You want your fluorescents to have a good CRI, which is the measurement of how true the color of an object looks under the bulb’s light. A good CRI for most indoor residential applications is 80 or above. A really good one is 90 or above, which is an excellent choice for bathroom vanity lights. All halogen/incandescent light bulbs have a CRI at or near 100.

Check the color temperature.On new light bulb labels, you can find the bulbs’ color temperature, measured on the Kelvin scale. The warmer light colors associated with incandescents are on the lower end of the scale. So, if that’s your preference, look for LEDs and CFLs with light color temperatures in the 2700K to 3000K range. Pure white light hovers around 4000K, while cooler temperatures that simulate daylight are 5000K or higher.

Forget watts…look for lumens.Why? Lumens equal brightness; watts do not. (Watts measure energy used.) CFLs and LEDs use much fewer watts than incandescents with the same brightness. As a rule, you’ll replace a standard 75-watt bulb with an energy-saving bulb of about 1100 lumens. On the low end, replace a 40-watt bulb with an energy-saving bulb of about 450 lumens. Rely on new bulb labeling standards to show lumen output and help you choose the right brightness for your needs.

Reference :lumens

IP Ratings Explained

IP Ratings Explained

When shopping for outdoor or bathroom lighting, you will most probably have been confronted by a mysterious IP code that is followed by two numbers.  This code was designed to provide us non-experts with an easy to understand description of how well-protected a light fitting is.

For those of you who don’t have an encyclopaedic knowledge of International, European, and British Standard codes here is a helpful guide to what they mean and examples of how a product and a situation match up with an IP code.

IP Broken Down

What does the code actually mean?  Well, each part of the code is designed to give you information and help you decide if the fitting you are looking at is suitable for where you want to put it.

Firstly – IP

The IP in the code is short for Ingress Protection – as in how well protected a fitting is.

Digit 1 – Solids

The first digit tells you how well protected a fitting is against solids – such as dust, and other objects. The higher the number the more protected it is. On occasion you may find the digit represented by an X. This means the value has not been determined, usually because the product hasn’t been tested for protection against solid objects. For full details check out Table 1 below.

Digit 2  – Liquid

The second digit is used to tell you about the level of liquid protection: 0 being not protected and, the highest value of 8 being safe to submerge in more than 1 meter of water. For a full rundown check out Table 2 below.

IP Rating First Digit

Digit 1

NumberSize of objectProtects against

0

No protection against contact or entrance by any object

1

>50 mmProtection against any large surface area of the body but not deliberate tampering or force

2

>12.5 mmFingers or similar sized tools and objects

3

>2.5 mmThick wires, tools and similar-sized foreign bodies

4

>1 mmMost wires, screws, etc.

5

Dust protectedProtected against dust – it has to enter in large amounts to interfere with operation. Complete protection against contact

6

Dust tightImpossible for dust to enter; complete protection against any foreign body

X

UndeterminedIndicates that protection against solid objects in not defined

 

IP Rating Second Digit

Digit 2

NumberProtects againstTested for

Extra detail

0

Not protected

1

Dripping waterDripping water – no damaging effect when tested against vertical falling water dropsTest duration: 10 minutesWater equivalent to 1mm rainfall per minute

2

Dripping water when tilted up to 15°Vertically dripping water has no damaging effect when the light enclosure is tilted at an angle up to 15° from its usual position.Test duration: 10 minutesWater equivalent to 3mm rainfall per minute

3

Spraying waterWater falling as a spray at any angle up to 60° has no damaging effectTest duration: 5 minutesWater volume: 0.7 litres per minutePressure: 80–100 kN/m²

4

Splashing waterWater splashing against light enclosure from any direction has no damaging effectTest duration: 5 minutesWater volume: 10 litres per minutePressure: 80–100 kN/m²

5

Water jetsWater projected by a nozzle (6.3mm) against light enclosure from any direction shall have no damaging effectTest duration: at least 3 minutesWater volume: 12.5 litres per minutePressure: 30 kN/m² at distance of 3m

6

Powerful water jetsWater projected in powerful jets (12.5mm nozzle) against the light enclosure from any direction has no damaging effectTest duration: at least 3 minutesWater volume: 100 litres per minutePressure: 100 kN/m² at distance of 3m

7

Immersion up to 1 mWater won’t infiltrate even when light enclosure is immersed in water up to 1m in depthTest duration: 30 minutesImmersion at depth of 1m

8

Immersion beyond 1 mThe equipment is suitable for continuous immersion in water under conditions specified by the manufacturer. Normally, this will mean that the equipment is hermetically sealed but in some cases, certain types of light enclosures can let some water in, but in a way that won’t be detrimental to the function of the light.Test duration: continuous immersion in waterDepth specified by manufacturer

Decking Den…

If you are re-designing your garden and building a sheltered decking or patio area for you and your family to relax in, then you need lights that are protected but not at the highest end of the scale. The Belinda Low Energy Flush Fitting Standard has an IP Rating of 44, so is protected against small foreign bodies such as stray screws and wires from entering, as well as splashing water. It is hardy and durable and will light up your decking den like a dream.

reference:lighting-direct